Vermouth- The Essential Guide

09 August 2022 - Inn Express

WHAT IS VERMOUTH?

Far more than just an ingredient in a few classic cocktails. Vermouth is a fortified wine flavoured with various botanicals – roots, barks, flowers, seeds, herbs, and spices. The name comes from ‘Wermut’, (the German word for wormwood), as historically all vermouth was made using wormwood, which was responsible for giving Vermouth its characteristic bitterness.

TURIN – WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

Like many alcoholic drinks, being vermouth’s exact originator is a much-battled title. Vermouth, such as Dutch Genever, for example, was originally drunk for its medicinal properties and rose to popularity in the 19^th century. The cities of Chambéry and Turin have been jostling for the title of the birthplace of vermouth for a long time now, following the division of the Duchy of Savoy between France and Italy in the 19^th century.

THE MOVE INTO FRANCE

Several well-established and reputable Italian families began to distribute their vermouth, including the Cinzano family. Once the family had established their company in Turin, they quickly developed a network of salespeople to expand their vermouth sales to France, where the aperitif was widely emulated. In 1813 for example, manufacturer Joseph Noilly introduced his recipe for dry vermouth, made from the white wines of Languedoc. His son Louis took over the company in 1829 and began exporting his absinthe, liqueurs, and vermouth beyond France’s borders. In 1843, his brother-in-law became his partner and the company was renamed Noilly-Prat. In 1844, the first order was shipped to the United States. Simultaneously, in 1821 Joseph Chavasse developed his vermouth in Chambéry. Made from local herbs, this vermouth was named Dolin and was the first to be awarded the AOC label

a century later (1932). The Dolin brand was also responsible for selling and marketing the first white vermouth.

INVADING THE U.S.

Carlo Alberto was displeased by the market share taken by French vermouth manufacturers, particularly in the United States. He quickly recognised the dangers of having restricted sales of Turin vermouth to the local market. He decided to join forces with the Italian Cora brothers, who had founded a company in 1835 and were exporting massive quantities of vermouth to the United States

to be sold to Italian expat clients. To protect Turin’s vermouth from potential copycats, Carlo Alberto granted them the first licenses in 1840. In this spirit of international expansion, the Distilleria Nazionale de Spirito de Vino was founded in 1849. In 1860, driven forward by new CEO Alessandro

Martini, the distillery became a key player in the global vermouth market. In 1865 (in Dublin) and 1867 (in Paris), his vermouth won many awards, and in 1868 the company exported its first bottles to the United States. In 1879, the Martini company became Martini & Rossi, following the departure of one of its shareholders. It was ultimately due to Martini & Rossi, and Cora, that vermouth enjoyed incredible expansion in the United States, the United Kingdom, and France.

CLOSER TO HOME

Now that vermouth is experiencing its richest period since its inception, UK-based Sacred Spirits Vermouths were the first to be produced in the UK, using only English wine from Three Choirs Vineyard. Although wormwood is no longer considered a requirement, Sacred Vermouths are made using organic wormwood which is grown for them in Somerset. It is harvested when in full bloom, as this is when the bitter agent absinthin is at its highest. Sacred Vermouth is fortified by adding its unique

THE MAIN CATEGORIES OF VERMOUTH

 

Some European vermouths have been awarded POD (protected designation of origin) status. This means that vermouth from Chambéry can only be made in Savoie, just as vermouth from Turin can only be made in Piedmont.

 

DRY VERMOUTH

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Dry vermouth is also known as white vermouth or French vermouth. It is almost exclusively white in colour (though it can have a yellow tint) and, as noted, originated in France. Dry vermouth is an obvious name that signifies this fortified wine’s flavour profile. It is a dry version of vermouth that often contains just 5 percent sugar. This style is more notable for its blend of botanicals that pair so well with gin in the martinis that require it.

As with all vermouth, dry vermouth can vary greatly in its taste. A good case in point is the famous brand, Noilly Prat, which is considered one of the best. For several years, the Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth sold in the USA was not as robust as that sold everywhere else. Americans just did not have the desire for such a profile (Gin martinis were poured with virtually no vermouth).

SWEET VERMOUTH

 

Sweet vermouth is also known as red vermouth or Italian vermouth because it is red in colour and originated in Italy.

Sweet vermouth is sweet, but not sweet as in syrupy or sweet liqueurs like amaretto. It has a significantly sweeter profile than other vermouth and can include up to 15 percent sugar. Sweet vermouth can also have a notable vanilla aroma mixed with bright floral notes.

Although it is most common to see red-coloured sweet vermouth, a white (or clear) sweet vermouth is also produced and can be labelled as Bianco or Blanc.

 

FLAVOURED VERMOUTHS

 

Very early on, vermouths served as a base that allowed manufacturers to expand their aromatic palettes. Dolin was the first vermouth brand to sell strawberry-flavoured vermouth called Chamberyzette. Since then, other manufacturers have followed its example, such as the vanilla flavoured Carpano Antica Formula.

 

STORING VERMOUTH

 

Closed bottles of vermouth should be stored like spirits in an upright position. Once opened, the bottles must be kept completely immobile and in a cool place. As with all fortified wines, vermouth will deteriorate on exposure to oxygen, which alters its aroma and taste. Cool temperatures delay the effects of oxidation on the vermouth’s flavour. Once opened, bottles of vermouth should be finished

within a few weeks.

 

BEYOND VERMOUTH!

 

Where vermouth consists primarily of aromatized fermented wine there is another style called “winebased aperitifs” which uses a mistelle as the base ingredient (mistelle is a fresh grape juice that

is fortified by adding alcohol). These mistelle-based aperitifs include Dubbonet, Byrrh, Pineau de Charentes and Floc de Gascogne. The former two (Dubbonet and Byrrh) use bitter quinine as a core ingredient and the latter two are known for using Cognac and Armagnac (Pineau de Charentes and Flocde Gascogne respectively) as the alcohol addition.