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Part 2: Getting to Know... Your White Wine Grape Varieties
27 May 2022 - Justin Sims
Continuing our ‘speed-dating’ series on the hottest grape varieties around, we’ve got another fine cluster who cannot WAIT to meet you.
Without further ado focus your eyes in, check your nose is clean, remove any lipstick and check your teeth for signs of lunch, we don’t want anything to interfere with this discerning bunch!
Meet Sémillon
The first thing that strikes you about Sémillon is its healthy golden colour. You may be lulled into thinking that it’s a serious sun-worshipper as it’s very much at home in Bordeaux, Australia’s Hunter Valley and Western Oz as well as Chile and South Africa. And whilst it loves taking the rays during the day, well who doesn’t, it can’t cope with excessive heat due to its delicate skin. With humidity and a botrytis makeover, expect those skins to raisin-like Sylvester Stallone and Goldie Hawn and ultimately yield something sweet, rich and unforgettable.
Sémillon lacks freshness and vibrance but carry’s extra volume and roundness, kind of along the lines of Rebel Wilson or Jonah Hill pre-7 am! Once as prolific as Stallone in his heyday, especially down-under and across South Africa, these days Sémillon’s become much more elusive. Warm and friendly, it likes to buddy up with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc but Sauvignon is really the only partner that brings out both Sémillon’s dry and sweet sides. A lover of seafood and lighter chicken dishes when youthful and dry, aged dry Sémillon demands bigger flavours including Asian dishes. Sweet Sémillon is as comfortable with the richest pâtés and blue cheeses as cream or fruit-based puds.
Sémillon and on and on
Meet Viognier
It could be Chardonnay’s exotic cousin, Viognier is a real seducer and charms in a way that makes Angelina or Tiger look tame! This hedonistic heart-breaker very nearly did a Lord Lucan but was saved by one or two loyal French devotees in the tiny region of Condrieu. It’s since charmed its way from the northern Rhône valley, down to the Languedoc and overseas throughout the New World.
Viognier generally prefers a hotter climate but this has to be carefully considered as it’s a naturally low-acidic variety. Away from the Rhône and away from torrid heat, it’s capable of taking on a more nimble-footed Floyd Mayweather, fresher guise but if you want a taste of the fuller-bodied, complex and layered ‘Hayemaker’-style punchiness, splash the cash on Condrieu or head to the Rhône-ranger specialists in Australia’s Barossa & Yarra Valleys, Stellenbosch and California.
Whilst Viognier can be a great virtuoso, with such an incredible perfume it compliments practically any varietal including Syrah. Creamy curries and fragrant Thai dishes are a great match for Viognier’s exotic personality.
View the Viogniers
Meet Albariño (aka Alvarinho)
The pride of Galicia and north-west Portugal, Albariño has an affiliation with the sea in a Daniel Craig/Ursula Andress kind of way. Super fresh, highly attractive and multi-faceted with an innate ability to entice. This coastal-loving variety prefers it cool but can also handle humidity thanks to its thick skin. With its recent rise in popularity, its reached California, Oregon and even Uruguay but Vinho Verde and Rías Baixas are where it feels most at home.
Likened to Viognier and even Gewürztraminer because of its botanical scent and citrus backbone, Albariño can also be a peachy little number that has the ability to age exceptionally gracefully in the best examples.
Like Bond on a Lürssen mega-yacht with a bevy of villainesses, Albariño is often found fraternising with Godello, Arinto, Loureiro and Treixadura but is just as likely to be found sailing single-handed. It compliments pretty much everything that comes out of the sea while tasting a little of it with its saline breeziness.
'ave a butchers at the Albarinos
Meet Muscat (aka Moscatel, Moscato, Zibibbo)
Muscat’s floral impact might make as big a statement as a Childish Gambino shirt or Cara Delavingne bomber jacket but delve underneath the botanical façade and you’ll find something more delicately restrained and thought-provoking in its dry state and spell-bindingly beautiful when sweet. Muscat comes from an extensive family and just like The Corrs, all are as attractive as the other, yet with their own stamp of individuality.
Muscat is a versatile dresser, like its close cousin Riesling, and can be sparkling, still and even fortified too. It’s primarily a sun-seeker but one variant can be found in more temperate, continental climates making dry versions in Alsace, Romania and across the Caucasus. Muscat à Petit Grains is considered the jewel in the Muscat crown, appearing in Piedmont in Italy (home to the classic Asti and Moscato sparklers) as well as the vast majority of sweet golden Muscats from around the globe, either in late harvest form or fortified versions (aka Vin Doux Naturels).
It can mingle with many other grapes, adding its signature floral accent, as much as it can hold its own and food options are as numerous as its extensive family tree.
Meet the Muscats
Meet Grenache Blanc (aka Garnacha Blanca, Garnatxa Blanca)
There’s a friendly and jolly disposition about Grenache Blanc that’s both magnetic and endearing just as if Brian Blessed or Dawn French had walked into the room. With the ability to add warmth and body to any ensemble, this popular entertainer helps bring out the best of its southern Rhône homeland, especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A lover of sun but not excessive heat, Grenache Blanc is mostly found across northern Spain from Rioja to Catalonia and back up through the Roussillon to the southern Rhône, with a few pockets in California and South Africa. Predominantly dry but also appears in Roussillon’s magical Vins Doux Naturels.
Becoming more of a national treasure in Catalonia where recently, it’s taking on more solo roles that are as distinctive and memorable as Montserrat Caballé.
Like its sibling Grenache Noir, it has the ability to translate the wild flora, especially herbs, amidst its attractive fruity profile. Grenache Blanc gravitates towards other big personalities like Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Viura and loves richly-flavoured foods.
Grab the Grenache
Meet Viura (aka Macabeo, Macabeu)
Second only to Airén, Spain’s next most prolific white variety is as familiar as Rafa Nadal and Arantxa Sanchez Vicario and is a key player in Rioja, Catalonia (particularly Cava) and the Roussillon of southern France. Super fresh and light when the vines are young, the flavours intensify dramatically when the vines top 50 years of age as in Rioja. As productive as our tennis legends, Viura has to be pruned hard and bunch-thinned if you want concentration and optimal alcohol levels.
Sparkles brightly in cava with Parellada and Xarel-lo and is seen rubbing shoulders with Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay and occasionally Malvasia in Rioja although it shines brighter in Rioja when playing singles, especially under the influence of lees stirring and oak ageing.
Play it cool and serve ace unoaked versions with fish, mushroom or vegetable-based tapas or go classic with a cava and fish and chip pairing or an oaked white rioja and fish pie partnership. What a smash!
Mingle with the Macabeo
We hope you like what you see and will consider a re-visit as we know these will make a great addition to your wine lists. Keep your eyes peeled for the next round, coming soon!