Getting on the Pisco!

10 June 2022 - Justin Sims

So what exactly is Pisco and how is it made?

“Pisco is a clear spirit from Peru and Chile, made by distilling fermented grape juice and then it becomes a brandy. There are several laws when it comes to pisco production. Pisco can only be distilled once, typically in a copper pot still. Another rule is that it must be distilled to proof so there’s no water added.” Adding water after distillation is common practise in the production of whisky, rum, vodka and gin where it increases the yield of the product.

Sam continues, “In pisco’s case, the spirit comes out between 38-48 percent ABV and that’s the yield. Another notable fact is that it can’t be aged in a wooden cask, it has to be a neutral cask. Historically a neutral cask would have been made from clay. Nowadays they’re made from steel.”

Peruvians are very proud of the fact that their piscos are very pure and unadulterated and as a result, production is focused on a ‘small batch’ but high-quality mentality.

What’s the history behind this unique drink?

“The origins started with the Spanish [when the first missionaries arrived], so the grape vines were first planted in Peru around the 1550s where the Spanish quickly discovered that the dry air and plentiful water of the coastal valley were well suited to grapes. The climate is actually typically desert-like. You get very small bunches of grapes that are really sweet and really aromatic, so are going to be perfect for making brandy as opposed to making wine.”

Sam goes on to say, “Historically the Spanish were quite well-known for making pomace brandy. Pomace is typically a waste product from wine creation which includes the stalks. They basically take this mush which is fermented and then distilled into pomace brandy. It’s quite impure and the tannins from the grape skins and the stalks make it quite bitter.” I know from experience that some of the cheaper Spanish brandies can be quite, how shall we say, rustic!

Sam adds, “Also, the history of pisco is quite clouded but originally it would’ve been known as Aguardiente de uva which is basically a grape liquor. It would later be called pisco by foreigners. The earliest written notes of this liquor were from 1613 when a guy had left pisco-making equipment in his will that included a copper-pot still. By 1630, this grape liquor is recognised in Spain. It’s not until 1825 that it’s known as pisco 100% by foreigners.”

The name ‘pisco’ is said to have been taken from the name of the Peruvian port from where the liquor was originally exported, Puerto de Pisco. Sam also informs me that the word ‘pisco’ is translated from an old Quechua word for a type of sea bird, and the sight of these in the port inspired the name.

Is it similar to any more familiar spirits?

“There are a couple of common similarities that people make. The first one for me when people try pisco for the first time, they tend to say ‘oh that reminds me of tequila’. I can see some similarities however it is very different from it [pisco]. In tequila you get this subtle earthiness, it’s rounded it’s got this hint of something you can’t quite understand. However, pisco is closer to grappa, which is a pomace brandy. The difference with pisco is they use just the grape juice and not the skins or anything else.”

Sam also explains that the temperature is controlled in pisco production in order to preserve the delicate grape aromatics, a vital component that distinguishes each different style of pisco from another.

How is it typically drunk?

“The way we like to sell it here is to drink it like the Peruvians would, so absolutely drink it neat. Treat it like a wine and drink it from a pisco glass, which is a small glass with a bulbous bottom and a flute-like nose.”

I ask Sam if they would serve it chilled or with ice to which he says ‘no’ as it would mute the flavour and aroma. Room temperature is best, which then puts me in mind of Eaux de Vies, fruit-flavoured clear spirits.

While Peruvians tend to sip pisco throughout the meal, Sam finds that many of their non-Peruvian diners will try it towards the end of the meal or afterwards. All the staff are well-versed about the different styles of pisco and promote it the same way as they talk about wine.

Is Pisco categorised by style, like Malt Whisky, or by age, as in Cognac?

“All pisco is essentially aged for at least three months which helps it to marry and soften a little. We could call it more of a resting process.”

Sam then explains that piscos are categorised by grape variety of which there are eight in total.

“All of those eight fits into aromatic and non-aromatic categories. Right in the middle you have acholado which is a combination of more than one grape, so typically it’ll be two, which will pull influences from either end of the spectrum. So you’ll have one aromatic grape and one non-aromatic grape and then you get somewhere in the middle.”

Sam then tells me that the most aromatic grape is the Italia which is a type of Muscat grape and gives very floral and citrus characteristics. He also explains that the Quebranta grape is the most commonly used, present in around 80% of all piscos, and is a non-aromatic variety that shows more roasted nut aromas and flavours as well as stone fruits. The least aromatic grape is Moller (pronounced moyer) which resembles apples, herbs, peaches and honey.